The exact definition of what a cosmetic is was defined by the Australian Trade Practices Act of 1974 as “a substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the body”. People use cosmetics to alter their appearances and to change the odors our body produces. So what’s in all this stuff that we put on our faces and bodies? A majority of the cosmetics produced generally has at least some of the following ingredients; emulsifier, preservatives, thickener, ph stabilizers, fragrance, color, and water.
Preservatives are added to the ingredients of cosmetics to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi, which could ruin the make-up and harm the user. Emulsifiers are small drops of oil in water or small drops of water in oil. To keep the oil and water from separating, emulsifiers are added. The combination of oil and water produces a homogenous surface with an even texture. Once this even texture is achieved, polymers are added to change the consistency of the cosmetics. Thickeners can be derived from synthetic materials known as polyethylene glycol or from natural sources known as polysaccharides. If the cosmetic becomes too thick, it can be diluted with water or alcohol, which are both solvents.
A number of chemicals may also be present to give the cosmetics a more pleasant smell and change the color to the desired hue. There are also additives to adjust the acidity of make-up, or the ph level. The majority of make-ups contain these ingredients to be as safe for as many people as possible. If you have reactions or know that you are allergic to some substances, be cautious before trying out that new tube of lipstick.
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Hydroquinone was banned from use within cosmetics in January 2001 due to its well documented topical effects on skin, however new research has shown that it also may have more worrying long term effects and the review expresses concern that hydroquinone is still ending up on the UK market via two routes.
Firstly a significant amount of hydroquinone creams are still imported from countries where it is yet to be banned, and a strong black market trade exists in the UK.
Secondly and more concerning is the news that companies can still sell products containing arbutin and bearberry legally. Arbutin is the glycoside of hydroquinone, and bearberry is a natural source of arbutin. Once in the skin arbutin releases hydroquinone, so many people are still coming into contact with this molecule.
The ingredient hydroquinone has been used for decades as a skin lightening agent and for the treatment of hyper-pigmentation following skin conditions such as acne, liver spots, burns and post-pregnancy masks. Dr Westerhofs review documents its ability to cause blood cancers, for example leukaemia, and kidney damage in animal studies. When applied to the skin it is quickly absorbed into the blood stream and excreted slowly via the kidneys, suggesting that hydroquinone accumulates in the body. It is broken down in the bone marrow and this is where long-term damage may start.
Theo Kooyers states that it is worrying to think that people are unaware that they are still coming into contact with hydroquinone and also they are not aware of the extreme, long-term side effects that this ingredient can cause. The EEC is yet to deliver its verdict on substitute sources of hydroquinone but it is important to get the message out there that "safer alternatives are available."
Since the banning of hydroquinone, General Topics a major research based dermacosmetic company, led by Dr Gianfranco de Paoli Ambrosi , has investigated alternatives and has tested and developed a product called Thiospot that is just as effective as hydroquinone but without the risks. Thiospot is made up of natural ingredients that build up in the skin over a number of weeks, safely slowing down excess pigment production so lighter skin cells migrating to the skin surface.
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